The foragers

Around each corner, a bush, a branch or a tree bearing fruits or nuts. Deep within the boughs and branches can be found the foragers. Not able to be too precious, selecting what can be reached with either there own limbs or basic stick tools. Shaking and hitting the branches to dislodge their reward. And into this small part of the eco-system we have arrived. The woman-folk participate in the activity while the man sits by the river contemplating greater prey within the swirling rapids. After some time we too are rewarded with a collection of nuts and so leave the shore line and are back on the way.

Thus is life for the German travellers along the Rhine. Despite it’s human altered landscape there are still plenty of food bearing trees and the local travellers know them all, pull up on bike, campervan or motorbike and gather a feast.


Today we have driven further down the Rhine, past castles and towns, our resting place for this evening, Lorely. Lorely is a granite rock in the riverbank and ascends 120 metres above the Rhine. It has formed a very narrow channel through which the boats struggle to navigate both due to the rapid water and hidden rocks. Legend has it that a nymph would sing from the shore luring sailors onto the rock, and this certainly looks the place for such a creature of desire to hang out.


Earlier in the day we explored Braubach (finally got the spelling right) and the castle of Marksburg, a 12-13th century castle that has been continually inhabited and never conquered since it was first built – the only one on the Rhine. Perched on the top of the hill it really was picture perfect and the German tour we followed (with English cheat notes) was a good way to find the nooks and crannies.

As we drove from Braubach we stopped off at a roadside fruit and wine shop, purchasing some local Riesling, the hillsides on the other bank are covered with vineyards warmed by the granite that they are planted in. Early I had bought a bottle of local Rosé, was very light and very drinkable.



Today we explore the banks further and maybe try to get to Mainz, the next main town down the Rhine.